Como Fazer uma Toalha com Capuz :: Hooded Towel Tutorial

Na semana passada mostrei-vos como faço fita de viés — hoje vamos ver como aplicá-la. Fiz uma toalha de banho para o bebé (aquele modelo clássico com capuz) e fotografámos o passo-a-passo. Vamos a isso?
Last week I showed you how I make bias tape — today we’ll see how to apply it. I made a baby towel (that classic hooded pattern) and we photographed the process step-by-step. Are you ready?

1. Material necessário: 
– um quadrado de turco branco com 100 x 100 cm (ou 80 x 80 cm, se a toalha se destinar a um bebé pequeno)
– um quadrado de turco branco com 50 x 50 cm (ou 40 x 40 cm)
– 5 metros de fita de viés larga
– linha de coser branca
– alfinetes
– tesoura
– cortador rotativo (opcional)
– régua em acrílico (opcional)
– tapete de corte (opcional)
– um prato de sobremesa
– máquina de costura
walking foot (opcional)
1. Supplies: 
– one 100 x 100 cm (1 x 1 yard) square of white cotton towelling (if the towel is for a young baby, you could use a 80 x 80 cm square)
– one 50 x 50 cm (½ x ½ yard) square of white cotton towelling (or 40 x 40 cm)
– 5 metres (5 yards) of wide bias tape
– all-purpose thread in white
– pins
– fabric scissors
– rotary cutter (optional)
– acrylic ruler (optional)
– cutting mat (optional)
– one dessert plate
– sewing machine
– walking foot (optional)

2. Corte o quadrado de turco mais pequeno no sentido da diagonal. Ficará com dois triângulos, mas só precisará de um para fazer o capuz.

2. Cut the smaller square of towelling in half diagonally. You’ll now have two triangles but you’ll only need one to make the hood.

3. Corte uma tira de fita de viés com comprimento suficiente para debruar o lado maior do triângulo. Abra-a completamente, alinhe um dos lados da fita com a extremidade do triângulo e prenda com alfinetes.
3. Cut a length of bias tape to fit the bottom edge of the hood. Unfold the tape and pin it to the edge of the hood. 

4. Cosa em cima do primeiro vinco.

4. Stitch on top of the first crease.

5. De forma a estabilizar os pontos e reduzir quaisquer problemas de tensão, engome a costura tal como foi cosida (ainda do avesso).
5. In order to set the stitches and ease any tension problems, press the seam as sewn (still on the wrong side of the bias tape).

6. Dobre a fita e engome.

6. Fold the tape and press.

7. Vire o capuz, dobre a fita e engome. Se desejar, prenda com alfinetes.

7. Flip the hood over and fold the bias tape, pressing it in place. Pin in place if you wish.

8. Cosa o mais próximo possível da extremidade da fita. Eu gosto de usar um ponto zig-zag largo, mas claro que se pode coser a direito (ou, se preferir, cosa à mão com pontos invisíveis).
8. Sew as close to the edge of the bias tape as you can. I like to use a wide zig-zag stitch but you can stitch a straight line if you prefer (or even blind stitch it by hand).

9. Alinhe a ponta do capuz com um dos cantos do quadrado de turco maior e prenda com alfinetes.

9. Pin the hood on a corner of the larger towelling square. 

10. Para arredondar o canto, trace à volta de um prato de sobremesa e corte o excesso.

10. To round off the corner, trace around a dessert plate and cut along that line.

11. Com um ponto largo, cosa o capuz à toalha e engome.

11. Machine baste the hood in place and press.

11. Agora só falta debruar a toalha: abra a fita de viés e prenda-a com alfinetes ao avesso da toalha.
11. Now you just need to bind your towel: open the bias tape and pin it to the wrong side of your towel.


12. Antes de começar a coser, deixe uma cauda de fita com cerca de 10 cm. Cosa em cima do primeiro vinco a toda a volta da toalha, mas atenção…
12. Before you start stitching, make sure you leave a tail of approx. 10 cm / 4” unsewn. Stitch on top of the first crease all around your towel but make sure you…

13. … pare de coser a cerca de 10 cm do final.

13. … stop sewing approx. 10 cm (4”) from the end.

14. Dobre as extremidades da fita e vinque. Afaste do turco as partes da fita ainda por coser e prenda os vincos (direito com direito) com alfinetes.
14. Bring the start and the end of the tape together and fold them where they meet. Finger press, take the unsewn bits of tape away from the towelling and and pin the creases right sides together.

15. Cosa em cima dos vincos de forma a juntar as duas extremidades. Corte o excesso de tecido e abra a costura com o ferro. Acabe de coser a fita de viés à toalha.
15. Stitch a straight line along the creases to join both ends. Trim the excess fabric and press the seam open. Finish sewing the bias tape to the towel. 

16. Dê pequenos golpes nas curvas.

16. Clip the curves.

17. Engome conforme descrito nos passos 5, 6 e 7.

17. Press as described in steps 5, 6 and 7.


18. No direito da toalha, cosa a fita de viés a toda a volta com um ponto zig-zag largo (ou a direito, ou à mão). Engome.

18. On the right side of the towel, stitch the bias tape in place using a wide zig-zag stitch (or use a straight stitch, or blind stitch by hand). Press.




Já está!

That’s it!

(photos: Tiago Cabral)

Como Fazer Fita de Viés :: Bias Tape Tutorial

Hoje vou mostrar-vos a maneira como eu faço fitas de viés. Há outras técnicas, claro, mas esta forma de fazer é simples e resulta sempre. Vamos a isto?
Today I’m going to show you how I make bias tape. There are other techniques, of course, but this one is simple and effective. Are you ready?

1. Comece por reunir todos os materiais necessários: tecido, fazedor de viés, tesoura, cortador rotativo, fita métrica, régua em acrílico, tapete de corte, ferro de engomar, máquina de costura.
1. Start by gathering all the necessary supplies: fabric, bias tape maker, scissors, rotary cutter, tape measure, acrylic ruler, self-healing cutting mat, iron, sewing machine.



2. Existem vários tamanhos de fazedores de viés; este que usei faz viés com 2,5 cm de largura. Para saber a largura das tiras de tecido que irá cortar, há que medir o interior do mesmo: este tem 10 cm.
2. Bias tape makers come in different sizes; this one I’m using makes bias tape that’s 2,5 cm / 1” wide. In order to know the width of the fabric strips you’re about to cut, first you must measure the inside of the bias tape maker: this one is 10 cm / 4” wide.

3. Dobre o tecido a 45º e corte ao longo da dobra com uma tesoura. O seu tecido terá agora a forma de um triângulo.
3. Fold your fabric at a 45º angle and cut along the fold with a pair of scissors. Your fabric will now have a triangular shape.

4. Dobre o triângulo ao meio, alinhando o corte em viés que acabou de fazer. Use a régua e o cortador rotativo para acertar esse mesmo corte.
4. Fold the triangle in half along the bias edge you’ve just cut. Using the ruler and the rotary cutter, trim that edge.

5. Agora corte tiras com 10 cm de largura até ao fim do tecido.
5. Now cut 10 cm / 4” wide strips until you run out of fabric.

6. Pegue em duas tiras com extremidades em ângulos opostos.

6. Take two strips that have edges in opposite angles.

7. Deite uma tira sobre a outra, direito contra direito (este tecido que usei é igual dos dois lados, por isso é impossível ver a diferença entre direito e avesso), de maneira a formarem um ângulo recto, e descompensando um pouco as pontas (cerca de 0,5 cm, medida que corresponde à margem de costura).
7. Lay one strip on top of the other, right sides together (this particular fabric I’m using looks the same on both sides so you can’t really tell which is side is which), at a 90º angle, and make sure you overlap the edges by approx. 0,5 cm / ¼” (this is your seam allowance).

8. Cosa à máquina usando uma margem de costura de 0,5 cm. Abra a costura com o ferro e corte o excesso de tecido. Repita até ter obtido uma tira contínua.
8. Machine-sew the seam using a 0,5 cm / ¼” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open and clip off the excess fabric. Repeat to join the remaining strips.

9. Com o avesso virado para cima, enfie uma extremidade da tira de tecido através do fazedor de viés.
9. With the wrong side of the fabric facing up, feed the edge of the strip into the bias tape maker.

10. Vá puxando lentamente o fazedor de viés e engome as dobras que se vão formando.
10. Slowly pull the maker and press the folds as they come out of it.

11. Dobre a tira a meio a todo o comprimento e engome.
11. Fold the bias tape in half and press.

Já está! Para ver como aplico as fitas de viés, espreite as minhas instruções para fazer uma toalha de banho com capuz.
That’s it! For the method I use to sew on the bias tape, check out my hooded towel tutorial.

(photos: Tiago Cabral)

Manta de Bebé :: Baby Shawl

Quando há uns tempos mostrei este xaile/manta que a minha mãe tricotou para o bebé, houve quem me  tivesse perguntado como tinha sido feita. Finalmente pedi à minha mãe as instruções — aqui estão elas:
Xaile/Manta de Bebé
Tamanho final: 1 m x 1 m
Fio: 10 novelos de 50 g (para agulhas 4 / 4,5 mm) 100% lã
        resto de lã em tom contrastante (para o ponto caseado)
Agulhas: 5,5 mm (para que a manta fique maleável, é importante usar o número de agulhas acima do indicado nos novelos)
Montar 5 malhas.
Tricotar em ponto jarreteira (sempre meia ou sempre liga), aumentando 1 malha de cada lado, a cada  2 carreiras, até ter chegado ao final do 5º novelo.
Diminuir 1 malha de cada lado a cada duas carreiras, até voltar a ter apenas 5 malhas.
Rematar.
Pespontar a toda a volta em ponto caseado.
A while ago I showed you this shawl/blanket my mother has knitted for the baby. Since some of you wished to know how it was made, I asked my mother for instructions — here they are:

Baby Shawl/Blanket

Finished size: 1 m x 1 m
Yarn: 10 skeins of 100% wool (50 g each) for 4 / 4.5 mm needles
          some leftovers in a contrasting colour (for the blanket stitch)
Needles: 5.5 mm (in order for the shawl to become soft and malleable, it’s important to choose thicker needles than the ones the yarn calls for)

Cast on 5 stitches.
Work in garter stitch (work every row as a knit row).
Increase 1 stitch on each side every 2 rows until you reach the end of your 5th skein.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side every 2 rows until you are left with only 5 stitches.
Cast off.
Overcast in blanket stitch.

(photos: Tiago Cabral)

Quilts & Quilting :: How to Make a Quilter’s Knot

As instruções que escrevi para os quilt kits são praticamente um mini-curso de quilting. Hoje mostro-vos um pequeno extracto das mesmas — a parte em que explico como fazer um quilter’s knot. Este nó não só é ideal para acolchoar um quilt e coser um binding, como também é útil para coser à mão em geral.
The instructions I’ve written for the quilt kits are almost like a mini quilting course. Today I’m going to show you a little extract — the part where I explain how to make a quilter’s knot. This type of knot is perfect not only for hand-quilting and hand-sewing the binding, but also for hand-sewing in general.

Comece por passar a linha três ou quatro vezes à volta da agulha.

Start by wrapping the thread around the needle three or four times.

Com o indicador e o polegar, puxe a linha enrolada ao longo da agulha e a todo o comprimento da linha.

Using your index finger and thumb, pull the wrapped thread all the way down the needle and until you reach the end of your entire length of thread.

No fim da linha ter-se-á formado um nó perfeito. Se for necessário, corte a cauda excedente.
(é possível que tenha de treinar umas quantas vezes mas, assim que lhe apanhar o jeito, verá que é muito simples e rápido!)
You should now have a perfect knot at the end of your thread. If necessary, cut the remaining tail.

(you may have to try this a couple of times but once you get the hang of it you’ll see how simple and fast it is!)

(photos: Tiago Cabral)

Autumn :: Apple & Cinnamon Cake

[scroll dow for English]

Num fim-de-semana de Outono, nada sabe melhor do que um bolo de maçã e canela ao lanche. Há uns tempos uma vizinha minha deu-me uma série de maçãs Bramley da sua árvore e, em vez de doces e geleias, lembrei-me de fazer um bolo. Se também o quiserem experimentar, aqui fica a receita:

Bolo de Maçã e Canela

4 maçãs (ou 2 maçãs grandes Bramley ou reinenta)
250 g açúcar
150 g manteiga
4 ovos, separados
200 g farinha de trigo
1 c. chá de fermento
canela em pó

1. Untar a forma com manteiga, povilhá-la com canela e cobrir a base com açúcar. Ligar o forno a 180ºC.

2. Descascar as maçãs, cortá-las em fatias finas e polvilhá-las com bastante canela.

3. Bater bem a manteiga com o açúcar até a mistura ficar cremosa e esbranquiçada.

4. Juntar as gemas de ovo e bater.

5. Noutra taça, bater as claras em castelo.

6. Ir incorporando no primeiro preparado, alternadamente, as claras em castelo e a farinha (cuidado para não bater demasiado a massa).

7. Colocar uma camada de fatias de maçã na forma, depois um pouco de massa, em seguida outra camada de maçãs, depois o resto da massa e terminar com as restantes maçãs (nesta altura poderá achar que a massa é curta mas a sério que chega: o truque é alternar camadas grossas de fatias de maçã com camadas finas de massa).

8. O bolo coze durante cerca de meia-hora mas, como todos os fornos são diferentes, é importante ir vigiando a cozedura. Não deixar cozer demasiado, sob pena de o bolo ficar muito seco.

***

On an autumn weekend nothing tastes batter than an apple and cinnamon cake for afternoon tea. Some weeks ago, a lovely neighbour gave me a few Bramley apples from her tree and instead of making yet another preserve, I decided to bake a cake. In case you’re interested in making one yourself, here’s  the recipe:

 
Apple and Cinnamon Cake

4 cooking apples (or 2 large ones)
4 eggs, separated
250 g caster sugar
150 g butter
200 g all-purpose wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
ground cinnamon

1. Grease the tin, coat it with ground cinnamon and cover the bottom in sugar. Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
 
2. Peel and core the apples and cut them into fine slices. Sprinkle them with a fair amount of cinnamon.
 
3. Cream the butter and the sugar until the mixture is white and fluffy.
 
4. Add the egg yolks and beat them in well.
 
5. In another bowl, beat the egg whites until they reach soft peaks.
 
6. Incorporate a spoonful of eggs whites into the cake batter, then some flour, then some more egg whites and so on. Be careful not to overwork it.
 
7. Place a layer of apple slices in the tin, then a layer of cake batter, then a layer of apples, then the remaining batter and finish with the apples (at this point you may think that you’re a little short on batter but it really is enough: the trick is to alternate rather thick layers of apple slices with thin layers of cake batter).
 
8. Bake for approximately half an hour but since every oven is unique, do pay attention. Do not overbake it or else the cake will be too dry.
 

How to Make a Natural Christmas Wreath

Ontem à noite fiz mais uma coroa de Natal com material que recolhi no jardim e pensei que seria interessante partilhar o processo convosco. Há muitas maneiras de fazer coroas – esta é apenas uma das técnicas possíveis.
Yesterday evening I made another Christmas wreath with material from the garden and I thought it would be interesting to share the process with you. There are lots of ways in which you can make a wreath – please note that this is just one of them.
1. É importante ter uma superfície de trabalho com algum espaço e que se possa sujar sem problemas (eu cobri a mesa da casa-de-jantar com oleado). Depois há que dispor o material que se pensa usar na coroa, mesmo que se acabe por deixar muita coisa de fora. Se gostar de arranjos simples e naturais, o truque é manter a paleta de cores bastante restrita.
Materiais obrigatórios são: uma coroa de metal com dois aros concêntricos, um rolo de arame fino, arame mais grosso, musgo fresco e folhagem. Depois pode usar bagas, frutos, flores… um simples passeio pelo campo oferece possibilidades ilimitadas.
1. It’s important to work on a surface that offers plenty of room and is protected from possible water spillage and dirt (I covered the dining room table with oilcloth). Then you should gather everything that can be used in the wreath, even if in the end you decide to leave some of it out. If you enjoy simple, natural-looking arrangements, the trick is to keep the colour palette quite restricted.
 
The necessary materials are: a wire wreath base (one with two concentric rings), a spool of fine wire, some thicker wire, fresh moss and foliage. Then you can use berries, fruits, flowers… a simple walk in the countryside will provide you with endless options. 
2. Enrole o arame mais fino ao círculo exterior da base da coroa.
2. Wrap the fine wire around the outer circle of the wreath base.
3. Cubra a base com bocados de musgo, enrolando um bocado de cada vez. Sobreponha o musgo ligeiramente e enrole-o com bastante firmeza.
3. Start by binding some pieces of moss using the fine wire, one piece at a time. Slightly overlap the moss and wrap it quite taut. 
4. Cubra toda a superfície da coroa de musgo, dando uma segunda volta se necessário.
4. Cover the entire surface of the wreath, and go around again if necessary.
5. Comece a dispôr a folhagem pouco a pouco, enrolando-a com o mesmo arame. Em alternativa, pode cortar bocados de arame mais grosso e torcê-los em forma de U, enterrá-los na base de musgo e dobrar as pontas na parte de trás da coroa.
5. Add little bunches of foliage, one at a time, binding them with that same wire. Alternatively, you can bend lengths of thicker wire into a U-shape and use these wire loops to pin each bunch of foliage to the moss base, twisting the ends of the wire together and tucking them into the back of the wreath.
6. Cubra toda a coroa com folhagem, orientando-a sempre no mesmo sentido.
6. Cover the entire circle with foliage, binding it always in the same direction.
7. Coloque ramos de bagas encarnadas em três pontos equidistantes da coroa, usando bocados de arame em forma de U (v. passo 5).
7. Add either sprigs or small bunches of red berries, in three equidistant spots of the circle, using wire loops (as described in step 5).

 

8. Verifique se há pontos descompensados na coroa e, caso tal se verifique, acrescente pequenos ramos de folhagem onde forem necessários.
8. If you notice that the wreath is unbalanced in any way, just add one or two bunches of foliage where needed.
9. Na parte detrás da coroa, faça passar uma fita pelo círculo exterior da base de arame e dê um nó no final.
9. On the reverse side of the wreath, insert a piece of ribbon through the outer circle of the ring base and tie a knot at the end.
10. Pendure a coroa num prego. Se a pendurar no exterior, a coroa durará várias semanas.

10. Hang the wreath on a nail. If you hang it outside it will keep for several weekes.

(images: Tiago Cabral)

Scrappy Carrier Bag Store (Grocery Bag Dispenser) Tutorial

October is scrap busters month at Sew, Mama, Sew: what a brilliant idea! People who sew tend to gather piles and piles of scraps… we are reluctant to throw away even the tiniest bit of our lovely fabrics, right? Well, it’s time to put them into use!
Today I’m going to try to show you how to make a scrappy carrier bag store (or, if you prefer, a grocery bag dispenser). Even though we’re all trying to reduce our use of plastic carrier bags, some of them manage to end up inside a dawer or under the sink… So I suggest we start storing them in a neat, handy way!
Materials
– fabric scraps in matching/contrasting colours
– rectangle of matching/contrasting fabric for loop (for hanging) (50 x 6 cm)
– square of muslin (approx. 45 x 45 cm)
– braided elastic, 1 cm wide  (cut 2 lenghts of 15 cm)
– tailor’s chalk
– rotary cutter
– clear plastic ruler
– self-healing mat
– pins
– all-purpose thread
– sewing machine
1. Select your fabric scraps. The goal is to end up with a 45 x 45 cm (approx.!) square of pieced fabric. I decided I’d construct 4 strips, each of them approx. 12 cm wide. So I cut my scraps into rectangles that were 12 cm long (all of different widths).
2. Piece scraps rather randomly. Aim for a total length of 45 cm (minimum), but don’t worry if it gets a little longer, as you’ll trim it later. Press.

3. Square it up. Repeat the piecing, pressing and squaring up 3 times. You’ll end up with 4 pieced rectangles, each of them measuring approx. 45 x 12 cm.
4. Arrange the strips in a pleasing way and sew them together. Press.
5. Square it up. This is the carrier bag store’s outer fabric.
6. Place the pieced fabric on top of your muslin and cut along the sides. You’ll get a piece of muslin that has the exact same mesurements as the pieced fabric. The muslin is the inside (lining) of the carrier bag store.
7. Pin in place.
8. Trace lines for quilting with tailor’s chalk. I traced mine 2,5 cm apart.
9. Quilt it.
10. Zig-zag all around the rectangle.
11. Get one lenght of elastic. Fold and press one raw edge (wrong sides together), approx. 1,7 cm.

12. Sew in 0,5 cm from raw edge.
13. Attach a safety pin to one end of elastic and insert it into the tube you just made. Stitch the other end of elastic (the one that has no safety pin) to the end of the tube. This will prevent the elastic from “escaping”.
14. Push and pull the elastic through. Distribute the fabric equally throughout the elastic. Get rid of the safety pin and stitch the other end of the tube, making sure you enclose the elastic. Repeat with the other raw end.
15. Turn the pieced sides together (lining facing up), pin in place and sew. Turn it inside out.
16. Take the 50 x 6 cm rectangle for loop, sew right sides together (along the lenght)and turn it inside out. Press. Now pin the loop in place and sew. Stuff the top with those nasty plastic bags and pull them out of the bottom. You’re done!
(images: Constança Cabral)

How to Make Christmas Ornaments

Why buy Christmas ornaments that look handmade when you can actually make them so easily? Sharon from The Key Bunch requested me for instructions on making Christmas ornaments so I’ve tried to document all the steps you need to take when making your personalised ornaments. So, this is not really a tutorial, but rather a bunch of suggestions written in an orderly manner. Shall we get to it?

1- First of all, you may want to look at some books, magazines, blogs and flickr photos for inspiration. Decide on shapes and look for patterns online. That’s right, I’m not going to provide you with any template, sorry! Just google ‘candy cane’, ‘Christmas stocking’, ‘gingerbread man’, ‘mitten’, ‘heart’ or — even better — draw your own shapes. Then assemble all your materials: various pairs of scissors, a pencil/pen, your glasses (optional), as many types and colours of thread as you wish, baker’s twine (if you own it), loads of buttons, fabric scraps, rick-rack, ribbon, pins and needles. You may notice that I’ve chosen a very limited colour palette because I believe that’s the key to success. But of course you can go wild and pick all the colours of the rainbow.

2- Gather all your felt scraps and turn your radio on!

3- I decided I’d make my templates the old-fashioned way: first I printed them out and then traced over them using some tracing paper I found at the bottom of a drawer (I think I have these sheets since primary school). I then traced the shapes onto a cereal box for durability.


4- Trace all your shapes onto felt and cut them neatly. Always trace and cut in pairs because you’ll be stuffing the ornaments later.


5- Here they are all cut and ready to be embelished.



6- Now comes the fun part: play around with rick-rack, ribbon, buttons and scraps until you are happy with how it looks. Then sew everything onto your ornament piece. There are so many possibilities here that I had to choose and show you how to make only one type of ornament. That means that from now on you’ll watch how to finish this star; then at the end of this set you’ll see other examples of ornaments you can make.

7- Let us get back to the star: make a loop (you’ll want to hang it on a tree branch, right?) and begin sewing the front and the back pannels together.

8- You can do it either by hand or machine and use different kinds of stiches. Here I sewed it by hand using the simplest stitch ever.


9- When you’re nearly finished, grab a bit of polyfill and stuff it through that little opening. You may want to use a chopstick or other pointy tool to get the stuffing in all the tiny and tricky places.

10- Close the opening. You’re done! 🙂


As I said, I’ll show you other examples of things you can make using this technique. Have fun and if you make something based on these instructions I’d love to see it!



Step-by-step quilting – part 3





Tadaa! Depois de tanto suspense, cá está o quilt! O meu primeiro quilt! Sim, é pequeno. Não, não sei qual é a sua utilidade. Mas fazê-lo deu-me imenso gozo e gosto muito dele!
Tadaa! After all the suspense, here is the quilt! My first quilt! Yes, it’s rather small. And no, I haven’t the slightest idea what it can be used for. But making it gave me so much pleasure and I love it!

Step-by-step quilting – part 2

Resta-me então falar do binding: foi preciso cortá-lo (em duas vezes, devido ao perímetro do quilt), coser as duas tiras uma à outra, aplicá-lo à máquina no direito do quilt e cosê-lo à mão no avesso. Trabalhei com um binding a direito (e não cortado em viés) principalmente por razões de economia de tecido.
Well, finally let’s talk about the quilt’s binding: I had to cut it (twice, due to the quilt’s perimeter), sew the two strips together, machine-sew it on the right side of the quilt and hand-sew it on the back. I worked with a straight binding (as opposed to one cut on the bias) mainly for economy reasons.

Pela primeira vez na vida usei um dedal. Não consigo gostar dos dedais rígidos em metal e a minha mãe ofereceu-me um em pele com uma parte reforçada em metal: aqui está ele. Adorei usá-lo e reconheço que é essencial.
For the first time in my life I wore a thimble. I can’t stand those rigid, metal thimbles so my mum bought me a leather one that has a dimpled disc inserted at the fingertip for extra protection: you can see it here. I loved using it and I admit it’s indispensable.



Não consegui tirar uma fotografia ao quilt acabado por isso terá de ficar para amanhã…
I didn’t manage to photograph the completed quilt so you’ll have to wait until tomorrow…